Bespoke Tailoring: Process, Fabrics, Pricing & Craftsmanship
Origin and Evolution of the Term ‘Bespoke’
The term “bespoke” originates from the Old English word besprecan, meaning “to speak for something.” Historically, fabric was said to be “bespoken for” when a customer reserved it for a custom garment. Over time, bespoke tailoring became synonymous with luxury craftsmanship, precision, and unparalleled attention to detail.
How Bespoke Differs from Made-to-Measure and Ready-to-Wear
- Ready-to-Wear (RTW): Mass-produced garments made in standard sizes.
- Made-to-Measure (MTM): Pre-existing patterns adjusted to fit an individual.
- Bespoke: Unique patterns created from scratch, ensuring a flawless fit and fully customized design.
Bespoke tailoring stands out as the most comprehensive and detailed option for those seeking ultimate personalization and fit.
The Bespoke Process: Step-by-Step
Initial Consultation
The process begins with a relaxed one-on-one consultation, either in-store or at a location convenient for the client. This helps the tailor understand the client’s personal style, purpose of the garment, and lifestyle needs.
During this stage:
- Discuss style preferences, fit, and fabric choices
- Explore design preferences such as lapels, pockets, cuffs, and linings
- Begin to align vision and function of the garment
Measurements and Patterns
Our Master Tailors take over 30 precise measurements, including posture and stance. This ensures the garment is uniquely crafted to the client’s body.
Measurements taken include:
- Collar, chest, waist (natural, mid, belt size)
- Shoulder slope, arm pitch, sleeve length
- Jacket/shirt length, dart position, hip, thigh, calf, ankle
- Knee width, knee length, forearm, bicep, elbow width & length
- Front and back rise, fork measurement, trouser length
- Waistcoat-specific: shoulder, neck, hip, front & back length
Handcrafted patterns are then drawn and cut exclusively for each client, serving as the blueprint of the garment.
Crafting the Suit
- Fabric is hand-cut with precision
- Skilled artisans stitch every detail with durability and elegance in mind
- Options include fused construction or fully bespoke floating canvas jackets
Fittings and Adjustments
Bespoke requires multiple fittings to achieve perfection:
- Baste fitting: loosely stitched for first adjustments
- Second fitting: refinements from baste applied
- Final fitting: finishing touches, ensuring the perfect fit
Most clients require 2–3 fittings from start to finish.
Final Delivery
Once adjustments are complete, the final garment is unveiled. Tailors provide care and maintenance guidance to ensure the suit lasts for years.
Timeline: Bespoke garments usually take 2–3 weeks, with express services available.
Design & Construction Options
Jackets
- Lapel styles: notch, peak, shawl
- Shoulder construction: soft, half, full, or Neapolitan shoulder
- Pockets: straight, slant, flap, patch, ticket pocket
- Personalized linings, buttons, monograms, stitching variations
Trousers
- Belt loops, side adjusters, or button adjusters
- Pleats: none, single, or double
- Hem: plain or with bottom fold
Shirts
- Collar styles
- Cuff variations
- Monogramming (body or cuff)
The Role of Fabric in Bespoke Tailoring
The foundation of every bespoke garment is the fabric. Clients are guided through a curated selection based on climate, occasion, and taste.
Fabric Types
- Wool (Super 100s – Super 210s)
- Linen, linen blends, cotton, silk, flannel
- Wool/silk/cashmere blends
- Jersey, seersucker, denim, technical & performance fabrics
Fabric Mills
- Italian: Loro Piana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Drago, Drapers, Caccioppoli
- British: Huddersfield, Scabal, Holland & Sherry
Pricing
- Suits from 3,500 AED (premium fabrics from 5,000 AED)
- Shirts from 450 AED
- Casual wear from 500 AED
What We Offer
- Suits and tuxedos
- Formal and casual shirts
- Blazers, overcoats, overshirts
- Trousers, chinos, technical trousers
- Safari jackets, dinner jackets
- Tracksuits, co-ord sets, custom t-shirts
Specialties & Finishing Touches
- Soft-structured tailoring
- Destination weddingwear
- Travel-friendly co-ord sets
- Rapidly growing womenswear collection (linen suiting, business tailoring)
- Hand-finished buttonholes, floating canvases, personalized linings, monograms
- Lifetime complimentary alterations
Clients & Expertise
Our team of master tailors bring almost 100 years of collective experience, all within our in-house production facility. We’ve proudly dressed celebrities, athletes, and business leaders, including:
Notable Clients: Harry Redknapp, Robbie Fowler, Jamie Carragher, James Haskell, Mike Phillips, Ricky Fielding, Kyle Walker, Ian Rush, Abdu Rozik, Mikel John Obi, Steven Gerrard, Amir Khan, Rangers FC, Al Qadsiah FC, Al Ittihad FC, Alistair Overeem, Ronaldinho.
FAQs
What is meant by bespoke tailoring?
It refers to garments made from scratch based on individual measurements and style preferences.
What is the difference between tailored and bespoke?
Tailored garments adjust pre-existing patterns, while bespoke garments are crafted from a unique pattern.
What’s the difference between bespoke tailoring and ready to wear?
Bespoke is fully custom, while ready-to-wear is mass-produced in standard sizes.
What are the three types of tailoring?
Bespoke, Made-to-Measure, and Ready-to-Wear.
Conclusion
Bespoke tailoring remains the pinnacle of personalization and craftsmanship in fashion. It offers not just clothing but an experience—one that is uniquely yours. Investing in bespoke tailoring means embracing timeless style, superior fit, and unmatched quality.
Bespoke tailoring is not just a purchase; it’s an experience, an investment, and a reflection of personal style and individuality.
